How long can a tortoise live without UV light?
A tortoise is a type of reptile that lives in the wild and can live upwards of 100 years old with proper care.
The lifespan will vary depending on what type of tortoise it is, but these creatures are known for their longevity when given the right environment to thrive in.
A common question among owners is, how long can a tortoise live without UV light?
It’s important to know that this type of lighting isn’t necessary in order for your pet to survive, and there are many other factors that go into deciding how long they’ll be around.
However, if you’re curious about whether or not they need it, we’ve gathered some information below on what the difference would be without UV lights.
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How Long Can a Tortoise Live Without UV Light?
How long can a tortoise live without UV light?
A tortoise can’t survive more than a few weeks without a source of heat. Even with a source of heat, it can’t survive without food or water.
The tortoises living in Russia would have to move their enclosures inside during winter because it gets so cold there.
If they are kept warm enough throughout winter, then they would most likely get sufficient UV during summer.
How Many Hours of UV Light Does a Tortoise Need?
Let your pet outside for 20 minutes every day or give him a UV bulb for 10 to 12 hours.
Dusk/dawn simulation bulbs are created by mixing red and blue LED lights together in order to get the “white” light that simulates the natural dawn or dusk.
What Temperature Is Needed for a Tortoise Enclosure?
Let us talk about the temperature needed for a tortoise enclosure now that you know the answer to the question, “How long can a tortoise live without UV light?”
A tortoise should ideally be kept between 20 and 30 degrees Celsius (68 to 86 Fahrenheit). Of course, this is not possible since we don’t live in a perfect world. We can achieve these temperatures with the following methods:
1. Artificial Heat Source for Basking Area
There are many quality products on the market that produce both heat and light. A common example is the ‘Repti-Sun 5.0‘ basking lamp by Zilla.
These lamps are available in many sizes, produce both UVA and UVB light, have a ceramic socket that will not overheat, and gives off no less than 38% of their energy as true visible light (measured with a spectrometer).
A 50W bulb will produce more than enough heat in most cases. Make sure the basking spot goes up to 30°C or so. That way, your tortoise can choose whether it wants to be warm, have proper lighting, have good exposure to visible light, or have all three at once.
Heat sources should always be placed outside the tortoise enclosure, so they do not absorb humidity.
2. Under-tank Heat Mat
Most heat mats have a temperature range of between 25 and 45 degrees Celsius (77° to 113°Fahrenheit).
Make sure you get a quality product with a ceramic socket. Otherwise, it will overheat. A good choice is the heat mat by Zilla. This product has an adhesive back, which makes it easy to apply to the inside of your tortoise enclosure without leaving any residue behind.
Many heat mats don’t come with thermostats or rheostats, making them hard or impossible to regulate.
The Ultra Max Thermostat by Zilla features both an accurate sensor probe as well as a rheostat solution. This product is used and trusted by professional breeders worldwide and has a 5-year warranty. You can use it with heat mats (up to 600W), as well as ceramic heat emitters (up to 1000W).
3. Outdoor Tortoise Enclosure
If you do not live in an area that allows you to leave your turtle outdoors all day, this option may be the best for you.
An outdoor tortoise enclosure will allow your turtle to bask in the sun on a nice summer day, as well as stay warm during cold nights.
Turtles kept outside need access to shaded areas where they can go inside when they feel like it.
A good-sized outdoor enclosure should exceed 2 square meters if possible and feature a shaded area, as well as dry land with the correct substrate. Contrary to popular belief, desert species of tortoises can be kept outside in mild climates year-round.
The key is providing a place they can stay warm in when it’s cold and cool in when it’s hot.
4. Heating or Cooling the Whole Room
If you plan on keeping your turtle in a room that experiences drastic temperature changes during certain seasons, such as an attic or garage, this may be another option to regulate its temperature.
Make sure to close off ventilation holes so no heat escapes too easily.
Large industrial heating ducts work best for this purpose if you have access to them.
It is also recommended to cover windows with insulation boards since glass acts as a greenhouse in winter and summer.
5. Substrate
I don’t recommend using any substrate such as wood chips or moss with desert tortoises since they can make them sick if ingested.
Keeping your desert tortoise on a reptile carpet is the best option. However, you will need to provide a shallow bowl of water at all times so it can drink and soak comfortably.
It’s a good idea to mist your turtle daily with a water sprayer for 10 to 15 minutes while being supervised by an adult.
This will allow it to ingest some extra moisture through transpiration from its skin. Many people disagree with this practice but science has triumphed over superstition yet again.
6. All of the Above
A combination of the options above is usually the best!
What Wattage of UVB Bulb for a Tortoise?
A 60-watt spot bulb, no higher than 6 to 10 inches from the tortoise’s back, should be used.
No stronger UVB source should be used because it can cause thermal burns to the shell. In other words, remember to use a UV-B gradient.
Some 1 to 2 years old tortoises have been killed from thermal burns caused by a gradient bulb being too close to a fragile hatchling’s carapace where there was no carapace scute for protection.
A 50 or 60-watt spotlight with no reflector or lampshade and raised approximately 10 inches from the tortoise’s back should be sufficient for most desert species. The basking area must be shaded during the summer months so that it does not get overheated.
For example, consider using an outdoor enclosure so they may bask in natural sunlight — full exposure of one side of the body during the summer months and full exposure of the other side during the winter months.
Tortoises need to be able to both walk around and dig burrows in a variety of substrates, so a wire cage with a large front opening is needed for this purpose, not an aquarium with glass walls.
The tortoise should also be provided with a hide box (e.g., upside-down flower pot) and a selection of substrates, such as soil, sand, bark chips, leaves, and grasses, for burrowing and walking around on, including artificial turf, which is very easy to clean.
A shallow water pan filled with de-chlorinated or treated water should always be available as well as a hiding area in the form of either a hollow log or an empty plastic flower pot turned on its side.
The ideal temperature range for most turtles kept indoors is 75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, so it’s best to have the UVB spotlight mounted above one side of the enclosure where they can bask in the heat.
A UVB gradient bulb should be placed within one or two feet of the substrate, if possible.
For example, place it almost on the ground for terrestrial species. The basking area must be shaded during the summer months so that it does not get overheated.
However, no more than 1/3 of the enclosure’s floor space should be shaded to allow enough exposure to UVA and UVB.
If necessary, you can also use a reflective material such as aluminum foil to increase reflected UV radiation in heavily planted enclosures where there isn’t any other surface for direct reflection.
What Type of UV Light Does a Tortoise Need?
We have answered the question, “How long can a tortoise live without UV light?” Now, let us talk about what type of UV light a tortoise needs.
A light-emitting diode (LED) specifically designed for tortoises is usually the preferred type of UVB lamp.
These are available in various models and brands, but any UVB-emitting tubes must always be coated with calcium to ensure proper calcium absorption.
Mercury vapor lamps emit only shortwave UVC radiation, which is detrimental to health.
UVB lighting should be set up so that it falls on your tortoise horizontally or at an angle rather than directly above its head.
This ensures that they do not have to constantly stare into the light, which can cause stress over time.
A full-spectrum fluorescent tube is preferable because it also emits light in the beneficial visible wavelengths.
If you cannot use a full spectrum tube you should at least use a tube that emits light in the red and blue wavelengths because the tortoise can see these colors.
Which Ultraviolet Spectrum Is the Best for Tortoises?
UVB bulbs (again, for reptiles) produce two different spectrums: long-wave (UVA) and medium-wave (UVB).
The UVC lights used to disinfect water do not emit any significant amount of UVA or UVB. There is no scientific evidence whatsoever that shortwave UV radiation is beneficial for healthy tortoises.
Indeed, there is mounting scientific evidence that even low levels of UVC cause abnormal bone growth and make existing health problems worse!
What Kind of Bulb Should I Get for Tortoises?
There are three main types of UV bulbs: mercury vapor, fluorescent, and LED.
1. Mercury Vapor Lamps
Mercury vapor lamps emit mostly UVC and some UVB and are physically large, very hot, and relatively expensive to run.
They do produce a great deal of heat, which is beneficial for basking tortoises, but they cannot be touched without burning yourself because the glass bulb is so hot.
Mercury vapor lights may also need to be replaced every six months or so due to a gradual loss of effectiveness.
Tortoises exposed to mercury vapor lighting should always have access to shaded areas since these lights can raise indoor temperatures quite significantly (over 40 degrees in some cases).
You should also cover windows with a blanket or towels in order to prevent your turtle from being exposed to sunlight when the mercury vapor lights are switched off.
2. Fluorescent UVB Bulbs
Fluorescent UVB bulbs (sometimes called compact fluorescent UVB bulbs) are more expensive to buy initially than mercury vapor lamps, but they use less electricity, last longer, and do not emit any UVC radiation, making them much safer for your tortoise.
They produce lower levels of heat than mercury vapor so you will need to provide a basking lamp in addition to the fluorescent tube.
Many models of these tubes also do not emit light in the useful visible red wavelength, which can make it hard to see your pets at night unless additional lighting is provided.
3. LED
Some types of LED lights have recently become available that claim to provide both visible light and ultraviolet light through the emission of combined frequencies while others claim to emit either shortwave UVA or UVB light.
Many of these are relatively expensive to buy initially, but they use very little electricity and usually have much longer lifespans than both mercury vapor lamps or fluorescent tubes.
LEDs typically produce the lowest levels of heat out of all available types of UV lighting, making them ideal for use in tortoise enclosures with solid walls that cannot dissipate heat easily.
It is important to remember that no matter what type of bulb you purchase, it must be replaced at least every six months due to a gradual loss of effectiveness over time.
Even if there are visible signs that the bulb is still emitting light, this does not mean that it is providing adequate amounts of UVB or UVA!
Bulbs lose their effectiveness gradually over time and not necessarily as a result of burned-out filaments or visible signs of bulb failure.
Good quality full-spectrum UVB tubes/bulbs produce a significant amount of heat as well as light, but some cheaper brands may not be providing adequate levels of UVB through the glass wall due to light loss from incorrect bulb construction.
This happens because weak or cheaply made bulbs have a more internal reflection on the inside surface of the tube, which will decrease both UVA and UVB emissions.
Some cheaper brands of bulbs only emit radiation in certain small areas rather than uniformly along the whole tube length.
To safely use any type of lighting for your tortoise you should read independent reviews from multiple sources so that you can compare reliable reports from actual users with the information provided by the bulb/tube manufacturers.
Are Low-wattage Basking Lamps or High-wattage Mercury Vapor Lamps Better?
Mercury vapor bulbs provide a lot of heat and UVB, but they emit so much visible light that it can be very difficult to see your tortoise at night unless you have additional lighting!
Incandescent basking spot lamps typically only emit a small amount of UVA and very little usable infrared light whereas mercury vapor lights also provide a great deal of invisible infrared radiation.
Mercury vapor bulbs should not be kept on continuously as regular daytime exposure to this type of intense UV light will suppress your pet’s natural production of important vitamins such as vitamin D3, which may cause serious health problems in the long term.
It is recommended to switch mercury vapor lamps off at night when nocturnal viewing is desired, but it may be impractical for some people to go out in the dark and turn them on again in the morning when they are needed!
If you cannot provide adequate levels of heat or light with a mercury vapor lamp, then your tortoise will either become ill due to vitamin D3 deficiency symptoms (including metabolic bone disease) or it will stop eating and eventually die from lack of appetite.
Most captive adult tortoises require UVA/UVB lighting even in winter months when natural sunlight levels are low, so please do not think that it’s fine because your tortoise can hide away for weeks without food during winter months!
Conclusion
How long can a tortoise live without UV light? Only less than a week.
Tortoises require UV light in order to live a healthy life. Tortoise owners should consider purchasing the necessary equipment and ensuring that their animal is getting adequate exposure to UVB rays on a daily basis.
Key points for how long can a tortoise go without a heat lamp:
1. Temperature Requirements:
- Vital Heat Source: Heat lamps are essential for maintaining appropriate temperatures in a tortoise enclosure, aiding digestion, metabolism, and overall health.
- Natural Habitat: Tortoises come from warm regions and require consistent heat to thrive in captivity.
2. Heat Lamp Duration:
- Dependent on Conditions: The duration a tortoise can go without a heat lamp varies based on several factors:
- Ambient Temperature: Warmer room temperatures might extend the time, but it’s not a substitute for a heat lamp.
3. Heat Lamp Alternatives:
- Temporary Absence: In emergency situations or temporary power outages, tortoises might manage without a heat lamp for a short duration.
- Sunlight Exposure: If safe and suitable, exposure to natural sunlight can temporarily substitute for a heat lamp.
4. Impact on Health:
- Health Risks: Prolonged absence of a heat lamp can lead to health issues like slowed digestion, decreased appetite, lethargy, and vulnerability to illnesses.
- Winter Hibernation: Some tortoise species undergo hibernation during colder months, reducing their metabolic needs.
5. Monitoring and Intervention:
- Observation: Regularly monitor your tortoise for signs of discomfort or stress, especially in the absence of a heat source.
- Intervention: If the absence of a heat lamp extends beyond a day or two, take measures to restore warmth by using alternative heating methods or relocating the tortoise to a warmer area temporarily.
6. Ideal Heating Conditions:
- Basking Spot Temperature: Maintain a basking spot temperature between 85-95°F (29-35°C) for most tortoise species.
- Nighttime Temperatures: Ensure a gradual decrease in temperature during nighttime but maintain a minimum temperature range suitable for the species.
7. Preventive Measures:
- Redundancy in Heating: Consider backup heating sources like heat mats or ceramic heat emitters to ensure continuity during power outages or heat lamp failures.
- Proper Setup: Ensure the heating elements are appropriately installed, secured, and equipped with thermostats to maintain consistent temperatures.
While tortoises can endure temporary disruptions in heat lamp availability, it’s crucial to prioritize their thermal needs for their health and well-being. Always strive to provide consistent and appropriate heating in their habitat to mimic their natural environment and support their physiological functions.
